3D Printed Real Class Slope & Half Rails

[Super]

3D Printed Half and Slope Rails for the Real Class. Does anyone know if this well known YouTuber is selling these somewhere?

Hi Super,

If you check the post on the guys channel you will find that he has uploaded the files for these rail pieces - Half length rail and Top/Bottom Slope rails - to Thingiverse, the links are in the video description. If you're wondering how I found out I changed the closed caption (CC) to display sub-titles by clicking the config button and telling it to auto-translate them to English.

So, basically you can print these yourself if you have a printer. Now, the one small downside, he printed these and suggests that you should print them using an SLA (aka Resin) printer. The reason for this is simply the shape of the sloped curves is such that it would be pretty difficult to get a decent quality print on an FDM printer because of the shape of the rails (in other words because they are not flat. The half length rail could potentially be printed on an FDM printer as it is at least flat, but SLA machines potentially provide higher resolution so it may be better to print them all the same way.

By the way if you check the guy's profile on Thingiverse he has a whole boatload of track pieces - I went to see if I could find the full length and curved pieces, they are there as are a whole load of other pieces including points etc... He also said in the video there will be more parts coming so to subscribe to his channel if you want to hear about them. I have done so can monitor his future posts

Have fun, Nigel

[Super]

Hi Nigel

Thanks for the information. I will have check out your suggestion on the auto-translate.

EDIT:
It worked...Fantastic, never knew this trick...thank you 😃👍

Here's what he has on offer...

[Super]

Thank you Nigels

So basically these slopes are very similar to the Plarail Advance AR-06 slopes that are a gradual rise for the Advance trains and are a full track length 8.5 inches. I am not for sure because I don't see measurements but counting the holes it looks like these 3D printed ones are an odd length and somewhat shorter than 8.5" which, if true, might make it difficult to connect with a more convoluted layout than just a loop but of course I could be wrong. I am imagining this may be due to the limits of the 3D printer itself.

Another difference I see is that the Advance slope is made to go from a flat surface to a flat surface of a riser, meaning this 3D printed one goes from a flat surface to a straight angle so a normal (flat) rail can be attached smoothly upward. I guess I would like to see if they could make these more like the Advance ones where connecting two together would give a smooth 1.5 inch rise. I have had many instances where I needed just 0.75 inch or 1.5 inch rise in a huge layout where by using one or two of these would create a bump where the two connected. I have also had times where I didn't have the space to use a full 17.5 inch slope because of tight curves where I have used the Advance slope to rise it before and/or after a curve to attain an eventual rise height I needed. Does that make sense?

Make no mistake...I am not complaining, this fellow does great work and I like what he has done with this Real Rail design and certainly might be interested in some especially if he continues with designing more in the Real Rail line.

I also very much like the utility of Advanced slope rails - I love just about any "odd" piece that allows you to break the "regular" Plarail dimensional geometry and how they level out at the ends make it nicer than using a normal straight rail on mini block girders.

A lot of the track pieces in his Thingiverse are very cool looking and I would like to try printing some of them (although I only have an FDM printer). I would love to use some of these pieces in a big shunting yard, and although I don't have enough of the regular elevated-style track to make good use of them, the switches and other pieces made to fit the grey elevated track with integrated side barriers are also very cool

In the guys video there is a section towards the end that he mentions the design of the riser is not as good as it could be and does in fact suffer from problems that could potentiality cause a de-raiment, his assessment is that the rail that joins near the top needs a pier to support it that has a slope on it rather than a normal flat topped pier.  This I can see and also see what is causing it which is along the lines of the angle of the connection.  Whether this can be changed to fix the issue is another thing, if I ever get any free time I may have a look at it and see if the files can be modified to get round the problems.  Thing is he is using blender 360 which I don't normally use and am not familiar with, although its about time I learned how to use blender as opposed to the outdated thing I do know lol

It may even be worth reaching out to the guy with your issue and suggestions on how to fix things as he may well be happy to hear about the issues and your ideas may help him solve things to make a better product.  If nothing else he'd probably be glad to know that he has an interested audience out there...

Thank you Nigels

So basically these slopes are very similar to the Plarail Advance AR-06 slopes that are a gradual rise for the Advance trains and are a full track length 8.5 inches. I am not for sure because I don't see measurements but counting the holes it looks like these 3D printed ones are an odd length and somewhat shorter than 8.5" which, if true, might make it difficult to connect with a more convoluted layout than just a loop but of course I could be wrong. I am imagining this may be due to the limits of the 3D printer itself.

Another difference I see is that the Advance slope is made to go from a flat surface to a flat surface of a riser, meaning this 3D printed one goes from a flat surface to a straight angle so a normal (flat) rail can be attached smoothly upward. I guess I would like to see if they could make these more like the Advance ones where connecting two together would give a smooth 1.5 inch rise. I have had many instances where I needed just 0.75 inch or 1.5 inch rise in a huge layout where by using one or two of these would create a bump where the two connected. I have also had times where I didn't have the space to use a full 17.5 inch slope because of tight curves where I have used the Advance slope to rise it before and/or after a curve to attain an eventual rise height I needed. Does that make sense?

Make no mistake...I am not complaining, this fellow does great work and I like what he has done with this Real Rail design and certainly might be interested in some especially if he continues with designing more in the Real Rail line.

---

I think you could probably print any of these models including those ramps on an FDM printer if you want to.  The issue is to select the best orientation and the get your slicer software to add the appropriate supports that will allow it to print successfully.  I would suggest the top and bottom piece be printed in exactly the orientation you would need them and hope that your printer can manage to print the supports required, using a raft would probably help in that regard, as you will need a good base for the supports to build up from as they will be supporting the main print almost exclusively (i.e. there is little of the track piece that would print directly onto the printer bed.  You would also find that an SLA resin printer would probably also produce a neater and stronger component, but if you don't have one then you have no choice but to try FDM.  

I also very much like the utility of Advanced slope rails - I love just about any "odd" piece that allows you to break the "regular" Plarail dimensional geometry and how they level out at the ends make it nicer than using a normal straight rail on mini block girders.

A lot of the track pieces in his Thingiverse are very cool looking and I would like to try printing some of them (although I only have an FDM printer). I would love to use some of these pieces in a big shunting yard, and although I don't have enough of the regular elevated-style track to make good use of them, the switches and other pieces made to fit the grey elevated track with integrated side barriers are also very cool