Hello again
We have another cool TMR set that doesn't work by default for TM1 even though, curiously, the set comes with track adapters as you can see on the box
Ok so this is just another destination stopper with the gimmick of the crossing bar but there's a trick to stop the train always before the crossing bar and that's the little tab right here:
That tab "hooks" onto the plastic switch activator on the bottom of TM2 trains.
By now, if you've seen my tutorials, you're going to hear me say that stopper on the track goes high enough for TM2 but not high enough for TM1, and you'd be right. For some TM1 trains, it'll either hit the stopper but the wheels will still drag on the track (which might make it go over the stopper anyway... plus the noise of it), or go over the stopper completely. Unfortunately, I can't show you those two examples because I modded mine already. So now we gotta do a couple a things to it to make it work for TM1.
Here comes the modding:
Turn it upside-down so we can undo the 3 screws, the red bar just comes out once you get the plastic cover off. The grey bar in the middle of the track doesn't just fall out, you'd have to slightly bend it outward so the tabs that sit on the ledges can slide out. The last image shows everything we need to mod after being apart.
So first we need to add extra height to the red bar so that the long grey bar can go higher to lift the TM1 wheels off the track. By looking at the picture alone, i superglued some plastic on top to give that extra height. Superglue 101 is that you need to sand both ends before applying glue for the best adhesion.
Again, be careful with how much extra height you give. It has to be just right so try to look at the picture and if it's too much you can always just sand it down carefully. The reason why it has to be the right height is because the higher you make it the more we have to sand down the tabs on the gray bar which are thin enough already
The grey tabs you see here have to be shaved down next; otherwise when you add the extra height from the red bar without doing this, all that'll happen is the bar will bulge in the center and won't help elevate the trains at the ends where you NEED them to stop moving. But even after shaving these down, there's one more location to shave down. And that's mainly because shaving down the grey bar tabs won't go far enough to give the extra height you need to lift the TM1 trains. So we're gonna shave down the little plastic bar on the track that holds the gray bar from going all the way up and out of the track. I used a rotary Dremel on the grey bar tabs and a drum sander on the underside of the plastic peices that holds the tabs but by all means if you have other ways to do it, do so. It'll likely look cleaner and more "even" than how I did it (I rushed). Here's pictures plus the tools I used:
Make sure you shave down the bar tabs and the two plastic pieces on the track little by little until you're satisfied with the level of elevation it gives to your Trackmaster 1 train. Put everything back together and then we have it finished product.
Here's a video:
With enough cross tracks and junction sets it could look like this:
Any questions just ask.
(This post was last modified: 12-03-2023, 09:59 PM by mitzalplik.
Edit Reason: Getting rid of the stupid "Happy Trails" signature
)
We have another cool TMR set that doesn't work by default for TM1 even though, curiously, the set comes with track adapters as you can see on the box
Ok so this is just another destination stopper with the gimmick of the crossing bar but there's a trick to stop the train always before the crossing bar and that's the little tab right here:
That tab "hooks" onto the plastic switch activator on the bottom of TM2 trains.
By now, if you've seen my tutorials, you're going to hear me say that stopper on the track goes high enough for TM2 but not high enough for TM1, and you'd be right. For some TM1 trains, it'll either hit the stopper but the wheels will still drag on the track (which might make it go over the stopper anyway... plus the noise of it), or go over the stopper completely. Unfortunately, I can't show you those two examples because I modded mine already. So now we gotta do a couple a things to it to make it work for TM1.
Here comes the modding:
Turn it upside-down so we can undo the 3 screws, the red bar just comes out once you get the plastic cover off. The grey bar in the middle of the track doesn't just fall out, you'd have to slightly bend it outward so the tabs that sit on the ledges can slide out. The last image shows everything we need to mod after being apart.
So first we need to add extra height to the red bar so that the long grey bar can go higher to lift the TM1 wheels off the track. By looking at the picture alone, i superglued some plastic on top to give that extra height. Superglue 101 is that you need to sand both ends before applying glue for the best adhesion.
Again, be careful with how much extra height you give. It has to be just right so try to look at the picture and if it's too much you can always just sand it down carefully. The reason why it has to be the right height is because the higher you make it the more we have to sand down the tabs on the gray bar which are thin enough already
The grey tabs you see here have to be shaved down next; otherwise when you add the extra height from the red bar without doing this, all that'll happen is the bar will bulge in the center and won't help elevate the trains at the ends where you NEED them to stop moving. But even after shaving these down, there's one more location to shave down. And that's mainly because shaving down the grey bar tabs won't go far enough to give the extra height you need to lift the TM1 trains. So we're gonna shave down the little plastic bar on the track that holds the gray bar from going all the way up and out of the track. I used a rotary Dremel on the grey bar tabs and a drum sander on the underside of the plastic peices that holds the tabs but by all means if you have other ways to do it, do so. It'll likely look cleaner and more "even" than how I did it (I rushed). Here's pictures plus the tools I used:
Make sure you shave down the bar tabs and the two plastic pieces on the track little by little until you're satisfied with the level of elevation it gives to your Trackmaster 1 train. Put everything back together and then we have it finished product.
Here's a video:
With enough cross tracks and junction sets it could look like this:
Any questions just ask.