Not My Fault!!!

[Super]

@Nigels
Yes I did my friend and I also ordered the Sushi delivery set to remove the reversing chassis and track pieces from it too. Which brings up my thoughts on also obtaining many 'OK' Chassis that have an LeD built in to use for swaps.
Yes...I got it bad


@Chrisjo
Thank you for the translation. I can't get that Manual to show in English...does it say what the A/B switch under the chassis is for? I would assume that the switch on the console gets it sound from the console so I am not sure what the switch on the engine is for.

does it say what the A/B switch under the chassis is for? I would assume that the switch on the console gets it sound from the console so I am not sure what the switch on the engine is for.

バンド切り替えスイッチ車体裏倶側
Band changeover switch on the underside of the car body

Seems to me that you need to select A or B on both the chassis and the controller. What happens if you have A on one and B on the other?

I think you're going to have to experiment a bit and figure it out. For example, the sound table for the Shinkansen column seems to be saying select A for E5 Hayabusa sounds, select B for generic Shinkansen sounds.

[Super]

Thank you Dr Chris. I will have to play with it and report back.

What happens if you have A on one and B on the other?

Nothing. The train will not start. I tried. 

The console and chassis interact with each other only when they are in the same position (both in position "A" or both in position "B"). But I strongly suggest using the "A", because the train starts and stops gradually, smoothly, it's more realistic. When using "B" it stops at once, abruptly. I wonder why didn't they make them both in the same way. I really don't like the way the train stops when "B" is used.

It seems to me that there are still some unanswered questions. Can one controller control two trains by switching positions on the controller? If not, why are there positions A and B at all? Maybe because two controllers can be used at the same time and each of them controls one train? These positions (A and B) are bands, channels, so the two devices (controller and chassis) must be equally tuned to recognize each other.  What would happen if you try using two controllers to control two trains without setting them in different positions? Probably a mess...

We'll presumably know the answers when someone gets two sets.

If it's of any use as I recall the R/C controller/chassis sets made for the PlaRail Advance system used to have an 'A' and 'B' setting and basically you would set them to match and could then use multiple controllers/chassis at the same time.  Basically the A/B sets it to a different radio band similar to what you get on many radio control cars so you can have siblings racing round with each other on Christmas day

The 'train type' is determined by the switch at the top. You can switch between: Shinkansen, Standard trains (commuter trains) and Freight trains.
Under different 'train types', the sounds produced will change.

The 'A' and 'B' determines the movement speed mode.

For 'B' mode, regardless of which 'train type' you select the speed mode/control will be the same.

For 'A' mode, the acceleration and braking profiles depends on the 'train type' you have selected.

For Shinkansen: The acceleration and braking is sensitive

For Standard train (commuter train): The acceleration and braking is less sensitive and you should need to apply the brakes with some expectation of a delay.

For Freight train: The acceleration is slow (to imitate the heavy loads of a freight train) and braking is also slow.

So, there are 6 combinations for how you would like to play with this.

Shinkansen + A
Shinkansen + B
Standard + A
Standard + B
Freight + A
Freight + B

-plarnold

[Super]

Many thanks Plarnold

For Standard train (commuter train): The acceleration and braking is less sensitive and you should need to apply the brakes with some expectation of a delay.

It’s my favourite mode: "commuter train" + "A". That little delay (that doesn't exist in position "B") is what makes it so fun and realistic. When you want to stop the train, bear in mind the train has to go on, gradually stopping, for approximately 10 cm before it stops completely, after you set the large main handle to "OFF". After some exercise, you can stop the train smoothly and exactly where you want it to stop.

[Super]

Wish there was an Off switch for the sound if one doesn't choose to hear it.

That would be much appreciated option, Super. 

Also, I have a problem with that "clack"-sound that comes out of the controller every time you move the main handle. It's not bad per se, but when I'm shooting a video, it's louder than any other sound of the controller, and it can be heard in my videos...