DalaGStanator's Customs, Mods and Experiments

So, regarding my Rocket on TOMY or TrackMaster track: the loco's rear wheels fit without any issues and even the drivers are nearly thin enough (to my surprise); but, the tender (as mentioned) is too narrow and has to lean to one side due to the inner rails. Then again, the track it was made for doesn't have them. The drivers are still too wide for points/platforms/other accessories and likely wouldn't clear them. I plan to replace them with thinner new ones, which would no longer fit on the UE track's outer rails. While it won't reduce the chances of disengagement, it will be more cross compatible and look better.

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The new driving wheels are four plastic bubbles (two for each one) from an old style button battery card, which happen to have premade holes. They already seem more accurate than the irrigation drippers. I had to mount them on bits of a clear tube since I cut the axle too short for them. The spokes are planned to be toothpicks, and there will actually be twelve of them as opposed to eight. I just have to figure out the traction tyres for them due to how deep and wide the grooves are, and in part because they can't roll freely. In the event they won't reach the rails on TOMY/TM track (like the tender ones), I could try moving them out slightly if needed. I was also no longer happy with the crude looking cardboard funnel, so it was taken off and replaced with a (slightly taller) real metal one - a tube from a telescopic pen, which gave me a far cleaner result. Despite my efforts to realign the chassis, the friction motor still rises away from it.

Yesterday, the improved driving wheels were painted after cutting the spokes and gluing them into place. They were quite difficult to align in a way that didn't result in eight or eleven, but I think they look totally flawless; as if I managed to merely upscale the trailing ones. After a second or third coat (if needed), they should hopefully darken and blend in with the rest of the model - which was painted over the exposed wood. If the CR2032 card design hadn't changed, I would've surely used them for many subsequent models (mainly on the "flanged" sides).



For the time being, the side rod holders were reused from the irrigation drippers. Ideally, they would've been proper crankshafts with different sized holes at both ends, attached directly where the axle extensions protrude. That's one reason why I have yet to glue the halves to each other. In the event they're found to be too wide (which I doubt), the inner halves will be flipped around so the flat sides would meet the "flanges". It should also make it easier to find suitable rubber bands for traction tyres. Hope to give them a test fit tomorrow.

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As I thought, they do fit better now and will just need to have traction tyres fitted. Despite not actually rolling, they had no trouble going through curves or points. However, they didn't fit on Union Express anymore (just like powered wheels on battery items) and had to be made thinner since then. Great to know they'll be sure to work properly (once I could find rubber bands in the correct thickness and size).

Went out and bought two different options for the traction tyres - a set of O-rings in various sizes and a tube of rubber adhesive. While I did manage to expand the biggest O-rings into a slightly bigger diameter, I had no way to make them remain that size when taken off. Instead, I applied the adhesive in a similar process to Bullfrog Snot: turning the wheels on a paintbrush, pouring as evenly as I could and leaving to cure. In the event they weren't going to work, I cut thin strips from one of the rubber pads that came with it and also tried heat shrink tubing, neither of which did it for me. I had to apply several coats until I got them to work right, and they perform surprisingly well even though they still don't "coast". While they fit well on all three track systems, the flawed construction of the model caused it to derail on TOMY/TM curves (unlike when the wheels were broad). To ensure they won't hit the side rods, the extension tubes for the axles were cut down and are now bearings only. While on the shelf, I now put the loco on supports to avoid getting flat spots in the tyres (worked hard to get them just right). Should they ever wear out, I could always apply it again. Very happy it fits the bill, and I'm pleased to finally put the Rocket to rest for the time being.

Another LEGO Technic prototype made to try a mechanism in practice before adapting it to my own materials. I wanted to use one of my pull back motors for a track inspection vehicle (speeder) or draisine and had various designs in mind, only to recall something both more iconic and (IMO) more interesting: a pump trolley/handcar [can't believe that's the first mention on the entire site...]. I remembered Lionel makes infinite versions with all sorts of riders on them - even Woody and Buzz and the elves from The Polar Express - and thought to look up how one of them operates. The official diagram looked very complex and didn't quite help me understand. I then found GIFs and a video showing (more or less) how real ones work and found this one, which looked a lot easier to follow. Recreating exactly what I saw didn't give the right range of motion, and it proved a bit frustrating changing the height and not knowing what I was doing wrong.

However, it occurred to me that as early as 1994, the LEGO Group made their own Technic design as one of the models in Set #8062. In that version, the arm is attached near the very edge of the walking beam so it could move equally at both ends. In spite of a minor creative liberty (the distance between the gear and attachment point), it turned out highly successful and works much like the real things. I also tried building an articulated rider for it, though it ended up causing some trouble and the idea was scrapped. I hope any versions with "normal" materials could be as reliable as this, which will allow me to make some with (original and existing) characters that Lionel never used.

Having sadly failed to build a (good) working pump trolley after four designs, I thought I should try bringing one of my other previous ideas to reality instead. When I showed an opening smokebox door mod I found for a TrackMaster Thomas, I added that seeing it inspired me to (potentially) build my own steam locos with them - albeit with real hinges in the right spots and an un/locking ability. With that, I made a cardboard test smokebox to see how I could actually do it. The plastic tube bits were used following Nigels' tip, though I'm not sure if I'll use them in subsequent designs.



Like the axleboxes on Rocket's tender, the hinges were made from (very) small bolts of staples. Even the idea to use a screw for a handle works how I thought it would, which got me fairly excited. I couldn't really seem to find good images of an American smokebox on the inside, so European ones will surely be easier to replicate. Like with cab interiors, I might initially use prints with or without details glued over before making them how they should be made. Given the scale is a bit bigger, I don't think I'll add this to a full locomotive in the foreseeable future.

Inevitably, I also made a UK style variant of the test smokebox. My solution for the dart was cutting a rod from a paper clip, twisting and hanging behind the head of the screw. I feel it emulates the look perfectly while both being separate and allowing a screwdriver to fit. Like on the US style one, I'm aware the door should be smaller and shaped more like a dish; I will pay attention to both when building full locomotives. My reference for the interior detail was an image of a Bachmann City of Truro. While I first used a better screw, I found it was too short to reach and didn't find a longer one in the same size. Turned out more similar to general European handles. It's also a bit more annoying to un/lock. Due to the oversized screw, the door stays up a bit better without it when opened. As a token of gratitude for GenericTruck69420's recent "spree of likes" on the thread, I took the number from his username. Fair chance it will end up on an actual loco (maybe even my first one in this scale).

Now for my first full fledged model for the realistic track system: a British 4-4-0 with the test smokebox from earlier, that draws heavy inspiration from a GWR 3700. The only real differences are it has a round topped firebox, no outside frames, a flat running board and non tapered boiler. It only seemed fitting due to the smokebox interior being based on City of Truro's. Rather than building the chassis and wheels first like I normally would, I actually started with the tops of the loco and tender (which made things a bit easier).



The coal was made from clay pebbles mixed with hot melt glue, similar to the pile of coke on the Rocket. This time, however, I ended up ruining the texture by overusing the glue and (initially) not building a ramp inside the tender. Would've looked much better if I let them set hard and painted them layer by layer. The tender is also a bit heavier than the loco because of it. Like on TOMY and TrackMaster engines (and the fake bogies on the original stock), the middle wheels are decorative to reduce drag or derailments.



It's also my first attempt at recreating cab detail (something I always found too confusing for me to study), so it's naturally missing quite a lot. I knew some electr(on)ic components, gears and random scraps could make decent pipes, gauges, firebox doors, handles and other basic elements, but the arrangement seems a bit off (and the backhead is bigger than the firebox). The two firefighters for the driver and fireman are still just the right scale, if not slightly too short to reach the windows. My next European rolling stock should be a little smaller to look even more perfect with such figures. When I wanted to see how someone else made coupling rods that actually link wheels together, I found this YouTuber named A.B. Railfan. His only tutorial showed how to build a cardboard chassis with rods, and he used small pieces of straws glued at the ends of skewers. In addition to adopting said method (with matchsticks and plastic tubes), I decided to try building the bogie, driving and tender frames in a similar way to his chassis. While I did get the rods to work to an extent, I made the holes for the crankpins too close to the axles and the frontmost drivers don't roll very well. That resulted in relatively small revolutions and no synchronisation, combined with the corrugated surface. I don't have much faith in cardboard wheels and hope to make them from something more reliable. The bogie is also held on very poorly and falls off whenever the model is picked up. I should've perhaps linked a drawbar to it from the drivers instead of poking a hole at the front.



I brought in the coach from the original set to see how it would look with this loco. I initially thought it seemed to be too short, only to find it actually matches the height of a BR Mark 1 coach behind the same style of tender. I could use its measurements to make appropriate rolling stock for subsequent engines like this. Here it is with the Rocket and Skarloey to give a better idea of its size:



A bit sad how going back to my "normal" customs after this will feel like a huge downgrade. Apart from the cardboard wheels and the bogie, I'm very pleased with how it looks and hope any future builds could reach similar levels (if not even surpass it).

Projects for the Union Express system have been pushed back until further notice. That said, I did build a third smokebox with a correctly sized door and a full ring on the inside. It was originally meant for a simple tank loco with valve gear in addition to coupling rods, which didn't work out for me. The ring on 69420's smokebox was made with hot melt glue and didn't have good support for the hinges (which I still didn't design well). The funnel is the same plastic container I previously used for Duncan's.



Having gathered numerous wheels from cheap plastic and die cast vehicles, I've now began scratchbuilding models in similar scales that look more appropriate for certain uses. I thought I should start with vintage UK style ones inspired by the background vehicles from Thomas & Friends, many of which will also be replicated. Compared to most of my off the shelf ones, these first three are only a little bit taller (roughly the size of Take Along/Take 'n Play).



This saloon (sedan) was originally meant to be ochre but became simply yellow, which I didn't like. Painting over it with the flat gold marker I used for Diesel 10 gave it a teak texture and colour instead. While not what I expected, it gave an even nicer result. My only real issues are the front bearing is at a different height, the (hot glue) headlights look bad and the roof seems a bit thin compared to the body. Maybe it should've been a convertible. It rolls great but has trouble keeping a straight line, and the rear wheels can get stuck going backwards. Ignoring the issues, I do like it for a first attempt.



Next up is an olive green van loosely modelled after an Austin 12/4 like the Sodor taxis. It's currently the only one designed for a different (smaller) wheel style to the others, and the only one with the bearings on top of the chassis plate. The trunk opens and is held shut with Blu-Tack. Clear packaging plastic was used for the windscreen and side windows. It's not a very smooth roller compared to the other two, but definitely an improvement in appearance.



Last is a non covered "soft sided" lorry in ultramarine blue. Not sure what to say about it, except it's the best rolling of all three. I would've liked it to be slightly taller and wider than the car and van, but it's still my favourite result. Only the bed was mounted a bit poorly and makes it look crooked at the front.



Given most of the wheelsets were taken from pull back cars (which I want to use the motors from), I ended up having more wheels (about 17 in total) than I have axles for them. One upside is it allows me to use different lengths if needed, but the main problem is the size of the holes. Most toothpicks are too wide and most pins (like paper clips) are too thin, so they have to be somewhere in between to actually snap into them. As it stands, only two/three bodies can have original axles at a given time. Despite that, my plan is to make these shells in very big batches that can be fitted with wheels whenever they need to be seen. I just need to find a perfect solution for new axles (without taking apart my last pull back of that type). Over time, I could eventually build countless other specialised bodies in different styles and eras, from real to fictional to my own designs. Too bad I never thought about doing this in my entire childhood.

This dark red roadster holds the distinction of being my only such car that's not made of cardboard, but rather pieces of plastic - specifically from an ice cream box lid. It has fairly similar properties but seems a bit harder to cut yet still easy to bend without heat (for mudguards and such), and my preferred glue somewhat struggles to bond it. Might even make it last longer than its cardboard companions. It's also the first one I built without reference photos, one of its inspirations being Noddy (I do plan to build his car with a near identical design to this, albeit yellow and red). The headlights were made from paper rolls, unlike the plastic tube bits on the others. Should I use this material again, I'll likely switch to using hot melt glue for it.



This black one was made to try making a roof using small rectangular pieces, leaving gaps for the windows and windscreen. It had an (unintentional) resemblance to a cheap die cast car I once painted white, which has windows that are completely hollow. Rather than inserting the clear plastic "glass" before the actual roof, I ended up gluing it on the outside and adding black stripes where the supports are. It's also got the misfortune of being too low for the wheels I wanted to use with it, which prevents it from rolling backwards (or even at all). I eventually fixed it by using the small ones with black rims I used for the olive green van, also making them easier to remove. I can already feel the improvement with each one of these.



With four of my first vehicles being modelled after Thomas & Friends props, this is the first one I chose to recreate from the show - the Sodor Mail van (or, as its nameboard called it: "Post Van"). It was made for a completely different (and more common) wheel design with loose axles and hollow rims. To be able to use them the same way as the less common wheels, I cut the end bits off the original axles, sealed the rims and made new axles from paper clip rods. It can also accept the other type and roll just fine with them. For the time being, I chose to leave the rims black (like on the ERTL and Nakayoshi versions) instead of painting them red. To get the exact width of the body, I made two additional layers for each side and then made the front and back. I like how it added extra depth over the side doors. Too bad it's taller than (Take 'n Play) Bertie instead of the other way around. About the only thing I don't like (besides the gap near the back) is the space between the mudguards, which should've been level with the walls. And no, it's not for a "Mind That Bike" remake; I still think Thomas remakes are one of the most tired concepts in the fandom, but it will be featured in still photos.

Relatively similar in construction to the black saloon, but with a better and easier technique for the roof: gluing the "glass" panes first and only then adding supports. In addition, (crude, unrealistic) test seats were added as an afterthought. Subsequent models with interiors will have better seats and a few other details, many of which will be inserted before the panes. It became slightly too tall compared to the others, making it look somewhat like a jeep with old style mudguards before the roof was finished. New locomotives, coaches and railcars (and any other rolling stock with windows) should have the same upgrade.





An improved variant of the soft sided lorry, this time in red with my first try at making a tarpaulin: four cardboard arches with pieces of tissue glued over them, which I found works well for the impression of cloth while also appearing to be stretched. I decided to try it after coming across this tutorial by Sharpie's Fish and Phantoms, though I didn't follow the exact process or use any water (besides that in the paints). My only real problem with these arches is that the cuts were too small, which can be seen in the shot from behind. Better tarpaulins will likely use bent wires or boiled sticks of wood to make them stronger, with a bit more room on the inside. The previous lorry is also not wide enough to carry it. Here are both versions next to each other:






My last vehicle for the current batch is a 1936 Austin London Taxi, specifically Taxi 1 from Thomas & Friends. While a bit oversized, it did turn out closer to the prototype than the generic van (which was only inspired by it). It was first painted in a specially mixed dark turquoise to look like the ERTL version, but I went by the reference photos of the actual prop and it was definitely "just" blue. As such, the turquoise ended up becoming a base coat and made the blue by itself too dark. It has since been corrected by mixing a light blue with grey. Even though they can't be seen in the photos, the front license plate was duplicated by printing for the rear. Because I don't paint any of my rims, the fake cardboard spare wheel (also not pictured) has a silver rim to be consistent. Of my first three Sudrian background vehicles, it might be my second best after the covered lorry.