DalaGStanator's Customs, Mods and Experiments

Second try at a forklift, this time modelled after a Yale GLP060; minus (what seems to be) the LPG tank since it's not "literally" that model. V1 was the first type of small machine I tried making for a 1:50 scale operator, but its proportions were poor and it had a stability issue; likely caused by the ridges on the rear wheels. It also had a flimsy mast made of one zip tie, with the forks glued to a pawl end that slid over it (flipped around so it wouldn't get stuck in place). This version uses cardboard wheels, with the front ones having "rings" at the sides to add depth to the tyres. Should've used a knife to cut out the inner diameters, but I will make them like this from now on to improve their appearance. In case the front wheels lock up, they can be lightly pulled forward so they don't hit the mudguards. Rear steering works as expected, though the wheels have to be touched directly since they're too close to the cab to fit a knob.



The mast and forks are made entirely out of zip ties, including their perfectly shaped pointed ends. For realistic mounting, the sliding frame is attached to a pawl end with a thin strip behind it to keep it from falling off. Since the mast had to be rebuilt with hot glue and the four-layered side beams have mild residue from the liquid silicone, it has enough friction to keep the forks up when they reach the top (even with a load). To allow tilting, the mast is currently held on with a cardboard plate instead of an ordinary hinge. Only problem with that is it can also tilt left and right, so the single plate might be replaced with two for added stability.



I initially thought it wouldn't need a real counterweight, but so much as 4 grams is enough to make it tip forwards. My solution was to glue a magnet on top so the capacity can be adjusted by adding more magnets if needed. Later forklifts will be fitted with counterweights before sealing the bonnets.

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I think this is one of your best work LaG 👍

The plastic Bob the Builder pallets that came with Trix are (obviously) too big and heavy for this forklift, so I built a pair of real wood ones specifically for it with two different sizes of matchsticks; thicker, long matches for the middle layers and standard, short ones for all the other planks. Both were made to the size of the random cardboard piece used as a makeshift pallet in the counterweight demo. Each one is made of sixteen matchsticks in total (twelve thin, four thick) and is even simpler in construction than most real ones made today. Because my pruning scissors can't cut them short enough to make cube corners without cracking/warping them, I instead joined the ends with two long planks like the middle one. The saw blade(s) for my rotary tool will likely do a better job than the scissors. Demo of one pallet in action



The main flaw with the (current) design is that they aren't deep enough to be picked up from the thinner sides, meaning they can only be handled from two directions. Even if they were, the forks still wouldn't fit in due to the middle plank and the lack of cube corners. Too bad the compatible ends are too wide to clear the doors of my LNER-style 10 ton van (for instance).

After the photos were taken, I've since reattached the mast more firmly so it can no longer tilt sideways. Now, only the forks will have to be lowered since it raised them a little too much.

A comparison between one of my older "tyred" custom wheels from last year (right; painted [flat] rim; no paper tread) and an updated set in a similar diameter (left; side layers; treaded). Makes the difference look that much bigger than it really is. Although the inner circles were cut out with a knife as well as scissors and a screwdriver, the rough edges make it look like there's paint on the 'inside' of the tyre rather than just the rim. Another issue is one wheel (somehow) always becomes a little off-centre when gluing the "ring" layers, even though they're the same size as the main discs behind them.



The exact same technique is used on the average cardboard vehicle and emulates tyres a lot more effectively, so it will be a tiny step in making my own ones look better. Unlike the previous flat rims, it will allow making a variety of hubcap designs that can't be emulated when there's no depth; especially conical hubs for front wheels on heavy duty vehicles.

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On another note: I just happened to miss the date of my Tenth Anniversary on BPT (April 12th). I could still put together a thing or two for the occasion, such as a miniature Plarail set or a direct ad for the site. Would anyone be up for that? I can already picture making things like micro versions of the "train-sized" 3-pack boxes, similar to the miniature LEGO sets in 3221.

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Happy 10th Anniversary LaG

The idea of making one or more "miniature Plarail sets" felt like an interesting new challenge that might be popular with other members, so I felt motivated to come up with designs for them. At 1:50 scale, any trains or track would have to be microscopic and barely recognisable if made to the exact size of the real toys; didn't stop me from trying despite knowing they'd have to be oversized (more like Gauge 1 or G scale compared to a figure). Behold, the tiniest custom(s) I've shown in this thread to date:



This micro Thomas, Annie and Clarabel are made of a single matchstick "brick" for each base (two layers for the coaches), with a cotton bud handle for the boiler and smokebox and cardboard for the rest. After painting, the details that are originally stickers (along with the wheels and coupling rods for Thomas) were replicated in paper to capture the aesthetic. No funnel, dome or switch, as they would all be too small to make and easily damaged/broken off; same reason why they have no couplings yet. Annie and Clarabel were painted with an orange marker since my real ones look a bit yellowish, while Thomas' blue and black parts were painted acrylic so the paint could reach the thin spaces between the boiler, tanks and cab. While they don't have the exact proportions - which would've been possible if I still had a working PC - I feel the current designs are alright.



Unpainted test circuit showing what the track looks like. Like how the rolling stock doesn't have working wheels, the track is "non-functional" in that it has no rails, connectors or working points. The curve geometry is also inaccurate, yet can still form a full circle with (not quite) eight sections like the original. The stock is the right size to fit in one rail on Junior Train (wind up) track the same way Plarail Advance runs on the actual system; not without mild friction at the sides, though.



Obligatory comparison to the originals. Apart from the proportions, my only other gripe is I used the "wrong" shade of blue for a 1992-2003 Thomas; looks more like the shade(s) used by HiT Toys and Fisher-Price, but at least the blue marker for the "stickers" matches it. Also compared them to their counterparts on the Activity Island, the smallest rendition of them I have as an existing product; it's also one of my first two Thomas toys before I knew they were tied to a franchise. My first two attempts at him were closer in size to these, with a plastic tube for the boiler and smokebox and hole punch pellets for the wheels. V2 even recreated the drive unit, although it wasn't going to be seen and the shell wasn't removable.



Painted track and added a stop/go, which uses a packing plastic strip for the bar and a toothpick for the lever. All parts are only painted on one side and don't have to be flipped over since there are no connectors. I also look forward to "shrinking" other accessories I have (and some of those I don't), such as the red base trees and signals, the Super Rail tunnel and semaphore, various stations, risers, bridges and more.

One way I could motorise a train like this would be to build a rotating disc with a static base in the middle, like the Timberkits Chuffy Train or this cardboard replica of it. Another option would be to reuse my Plarail-powered magnet experiment and paint the track on a base by following the magnet/s' path. That way, I could get the exact speed and sound of the actual item by using it to motorise a miniature of itself.

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Wow, LaG...either you have excellent eyesight or a very good hands free magnifying glass set up. With my eyesight and gorilla fingers I would never be able to do what you have here 👍