Tramps N Gauge
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Well nearly 2years since I last looked at the layout and the mojo just came flooding back!
(This post was last modified: 01-14-2018, 12:18 AM by Tramp.)
I pulled out the layout from the garage wall ripped the resistors out of the wiring looms for the buildings and order a dc-dc voltage convertor, One thing that bothered me (when I lost the urge) Was that I was going to have to redo all my wiring looms, after some testing I found that I was putting too much current through them and basically cooking the resistor. I Considered leaveing them as they were but after running them for a length of time the resistor turned out to be quite a fire risk! I knew it was going to be a painful job changing the looms as they were so damn fiddly to solder and I knew I didn’t have much spare cable tail left. So the loom work was my first job only one building loom couldn’t be saved (the winch house) so now it has a replacement single led in, instead of the awesome 4led loom it used to have - oh well. ![]() So today, me and my son played trains for a bit, we then drilled a few holes for the cables to run from the buildings down to under the base so the buildings can be illuminated, ![]() Then I looked at the winding house, ideally when it’s all finished I want the colliery head gear wheels to turn, one forward one backward, the cabling runs to the winding house where (in a real colliery) the motor lives, in this I was going to struggle to fit the motor in without obscuring the led, so I decided I just wanted the cable to loop in and out of the building. Because of where the cable runs in and out it was going to be difficult to mount a pulley so I opted to have a guide for the rope. I decided to use a bit of automotive copper brake pipe, I flared both ends that way I could ensure it was lined up with the rope guides cast onto the side of the building Here was guide before I fitted it ![]() The guide fitted (I just used a hot glue gun to glue it in position) ![]() And with the cable ran through it, ![]() The motor that will turn this cable will be under the base board I’ve also been thinking about my controller, I have a single dc controller that came with a graham farish set, the problem I have is that when I run my class 20 and any of my other locos (with the single controller powering both loops) the class 20 is much more responsive, to set the ‘other’ loco to a suitable speed the class20 is rocketing around, & if I set the speed right on the class20 the other loco doesn’t run. To overcome this I think I need two controllers, I was toying with the idea of making the display battery powered using a 12v battery and radio controlled car speed controllers (PWM controllers) If it was battery powered I wouldn’t have to mess about with trailing cables then every time we wanted to play trains & I’ve already got most of the parts, Thanks for reading Luke
I am always amazed at your electrical configurations Tramp and I am excited to see that you have the juices flowing again to work on this and look forward to see your progression.
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