The £2.50 lighting conversion - You can do it too!

5 Replies, 1126 Views

Picture this - Easy-install coach lighting for virtually any Plarail model, no soldering, no permanent modification or damage to your model, and all this for less than the cost of an average cup of coffee?

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Yes, it can be done 👍



You will need;

Any Plarail model or coaches, which need to be the kind that use screw-fittings to hold together.


A set of battery operated Christmas lights. You will need the type which uses thin uncoated wire with 'blob' LEDs, and if possible, button-cell batteries for an easier conversion. Ones which use AA batteries will also suffice, but require additional work for conversion.

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A set like these will cost £1-£2 here in the UK, these specifically came from Poundland, but they're probably available worldwide either online or in your country's equivalent to Poundland.

I have also used and found that lights with coated wires do work, but are slightly harder to install; If you can obtain the bare wire kind, these are best, but either works.


2 AAA batteries - Ignore this stage if your lights use button cells, but if yours take AA batteries, you actually want to get AAA batteries - This will make more sense later on in this tutorial.

Sellotape




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For this ready-made example I used the Tomica World 300X Shinkansen, which actually has headlight lenses that are unused; Adding lights makes even more sense for this model, as aside from lighting the coaches, I fixed an LED to each lens to give the model working headlights Big Grin

The best part of this conversion is that it is entirely reversible - There is no need to alter, modify or damage any parts of the model to fit these lights in, although it will mean that once fitted, whatever stock has the lights will not be able to be uncoupled without removing the lights.


To convert, as demonstrated below with my JNR/JR Hokkaido 'Furano Express';

Step 1 - Remove the coach bodies from all the coaches of the train. 

When installing the lights, if you are installing them into a multiple-unit like a Shinkansen, the batteries should be installed in the rear coach, and then the lights should be installed 'forwards', with the aim being that the non-battery end of the string of lights will sit in the front of the motor coach.

For individual non-motorised coaches, it should either be the front or the rear coach in a set which carries the batteries. Do not fit lights to the locomotive unless you specifically want to, and the locomotive can take them.



Step 2

N.B Skip directly to Stage 4 if you have bought lights which use button-cells and have a compact battery box. These are immediately ready for fitting with no further attention.


Take your lights, and remove the battery box from the string. I have found the Poundland ones tend to just clip together, so all you need to do is remove the top battery terminals from the box. Discard the battery box or keep for future electronics projects (if you're like me LOL) 

These strings tend to have a switch attached to the positive battery terminal as well. Keep this attached.

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At this stage, bend the switch and terminal so the switch is at roughly 90 degrees to the terminal.


Stage 3

DO NOT use AA batteries, even if the lights said they were for AAs on the box. 

AAA batteries are the same voltage as AAs, but a smaller size. They are the only size that can fit into the gap between the fixing pillar and the sides of the coach body.

Take 2 AAA batteries, then join them in the middle (the positive 'stud' touching the flat negative) using Sellotape to create a long 'battery cylinder'. Ensure that contact is made between the terminals.

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Test that the lights are working and batteries are securely joined by touching the battery contacts to each end of the cylinder. If they work, tape the battery contacts to each end of the cylinder, again ensuring a tight connection is made. Make sure the switch is still accessible.

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Step 4

Install the battery cylinder by placing it into the coach body. You may secure it with tape if you wish. 

If your set uses a small button cell battery box, simply place this in the rear coach instead of the battery cylinder.

Gather any excess cable and place it inside the rear coach, as well as several of the LEDs, but leave enough for the rest of the train. 

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When satisfied, replace the chassis ensuring the cable runs out through the opening for the coupling hook. 

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It may also be possible to position the switch near a window to allow for operation without opening the coach, but this is not essential.

Step 5

Repeat this process with the remaining coaches. When doing the motor coach, you should position the lights however best works for the specific model, as each one has slightly different dimensions in the engine compartment. Make sure to keep the wires clear of any moving components.


Step 6

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Turn them on and enjoy - You now have a fully lit Plarail model! 

If you should ever wish to remove the lights, simply perform the installation procedure in reverse, and you will return to having a plain model.


Admittedly this method is by no means the neatest or even most perfect method for Plarail coach lighting or headlights, but it is designed mainly to be a super-affordable method that needs no electronic experience, and is probably something you can easily try at home Big Grin

Happy modding!
Been building Plarail worlds since 2001; Building when I can in 2023 Cool
(This post was last modified: 12-07-2023, 08:41 PM by Plarail Man UK.)
[-] The following 4 users Like Plarail Man UK's post:
  • DalaGStanator, generic_truck_69420, HanoibusGamer, Super
Thanks for the tutorial P-Man. I would like to add that the uncoated wired ones with the "blob" Leds as you call them can be shortened if need by by simply cutting it anywhere to length with a pair of scissors and they still work, at least all the ones like that that I have work that way.
[-] The following 1 user Likes Super's post:
  • DalaGStanator
There's another thread about using these Christmas lights on here somewhere, presumably about a year ago, but I haven't found it yet!

EDIT: Two years ago, https://www.blueplastictracks.org/thread...l#pid58591
(This post was last modified: 12-08-2023, 09:08 AM by chrisjo.)
[-] The following 2 users Like chrisjo's post:
  • DalaGStanator, Super
Ah, I had no idea Tongue

Oh well, figured i'd post my version to BPT since I was doing it anyway, I was just going to do it and not post it here, but I thought maybe it'd be a useful tutorial lol
Been building Plarail worlds since 2001; Building when I can in 2023 Cool
[-] The following 2 users Like Plarail Man UK's post:
  • DalaGStanator, Super
Its okay P-man...the more versions of modifications here at BPT's. They are all different points of view and gives readers idea's of what and how they might go about a mod. They may get ideas on how to improve on any guild and thats what I like. 👍
[-] The following 1 user Likes Super's post:
  • DalaGStanator
(12-08-2023, 12:48 PM)Super Wrote: Its okay P-man...the more versions of modifications here at BPT's. They are all different points of view and gives readers idea's of what and how they might go about a mod. They may get ideas on how to improve on any guild and thats what I like. 👍

Exactly!
[-] The following 2 users Like chrisjo's post:
  • DalaGStanator, Super



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