![[Image: 266-A3076-6-A83-48-AA-8-E2-C-17-F799-CF4-FDC.jpg]](https://i.postimg.cc/qh2RFWND/266-A3076-6-A83-48-AA-8-E2-C-17-F799-CF4-FDC.jpg)
The wires that were factory soldered to the left and right prongs on the previous light switch had broken off as a result of further bending (only the middle one remains), so it had to be taken off and replaced with a more common (bigger) switch. I failed to solder new wires or the LEDs' anodes to the other one due to how small it was, one reason being the prongs were too short to wrap wires around. The old negative wire was also a fragile single strand type I couldn't solder to the aluminium strip, so that too had to be replaced with a common multi strand wire.
![[Image: F9793-EB7-84-C0-4-D9-C-87-DF-9-E50-CBFF0550.jpg]](https://i.postimg.cc/cKLkzpXx/F9793-EB7-84-C0-4-D9-C-87-DF-9-E50-CBFF0550.jpg)
![[Image: BB61-F90-B-FBC7-4-F77-85-ED-7-EEE4-E0-B8169.jpg]](https://i.postimg.cc/crxRQBjG/BB61-F90-B-FBC7-4-F77-85-ED-7-EEE4-E0-B8169.jpg)
![[Image: 97-F99-BFA-0-BF5-49-FB-9460-87-A3-BF5286-DF.jpg]](https://i.postimg.cc/w3c5yGwk/97-F99-BFA-0-BF5-49-FB-9460-87-A3-BF5286-DF.jpg)
After that, I attached the signal to a post glued to the light switch and guided the wires around it through tight fitting tube rings (which weren't glued). A maintenance platform and ladder will be added, in part to conceal the wires a bit better. The plastic bit isn't a suction cup, but rather a pull cord knob from a rubber band propeller launcher. Didn't even need to glue the post due to how tightly it fits.
![[Image: A0562132-67-B6-4-BF5-8495-F7-CD6-E21-DCEC.jpg]](https://i.postimg.cc/K3NYGLrn/A0562132-67-B6-4-BF5-8495-F7-CD6-E21-DCEC.jpg)
![[Image: 872-DEC22-AF34-48-AC-9-B53-4-E93-A9-F4-BE37.jpg]](https://i.postimg.cc/nMtYLJGz/872-DEC22-AF34-48-AC-9-B53-4-E93-A9-F4-BE37.jpg)
The originally planned coin cell would've been too big and the 3x LR44 compartment was a bit overpowered (the LEDs have no resistors), so a new 2x LR44 one was made to provide minimum voltage. Before adding the power switch, the positive wire was initially connected directly for testing. The only drawback is the cells have to be pulled out with a magnet or tweezers. The normal wire for the switch might be replaced with a safety pin like the one from earlier to prevent it from coming off, in the event the screw would "reject" the solder. There were times when one light responded and the other didn't without adjusting the head, so six connections will be re/soldered before adding missing details. I don't have enough (factory made) slide switches and don't plan to use the design for additional signals in the near future.