DalaGStanator's Customs, Mods and Experiments

Similar to the previous configuration, but with a worm gear on the motor instead of the crown gear. Due to the worm gear being smaller, it helped give the more appropriate low speed I wanted (and, by extension, higher torque). It also meshes more nicely with the inner part of the uppermost gear. I could also mount it horizontally like this and turn it into a bogie for large diesels/electrics. To cure the side clearance issue without exceeding the gauge, all I had to do was make thinner wheels with wider flanges.



The redesigned chassis. Unlike the first attempt, it was built more logically with the front wheels hot glued to the gearbox (before the running board was added). It took several tries to get the motor to mesh and stay where it should be, but at least it no longer dips. Due to the blind middle wheels, the chassis is now shorter and a bit more compact in general. Despite a terrible "waddle" caused by the malformed driving wheels (like the faulty model that inspired Duck), I'm just happy it runs to begin with and didn't replace them until much later. Then again, it's only my second motorised loco for this track minus the chassis from earlier.



Running board and other details added, including a temporary LED to show how the glowing firebox would look. In addition to the flickering light, I would likely add a piece of clear plastic with flames drawn on it that would be illuminated. There wasn't much room for the 2x AAA pack and the 3x AAA would've been overpowered, so I went with a custom compartment for one AAA. The third smokebox I made was just the right size and only had to be slightly trimmed. This time, the cab is also short enough for a crew to see out the windows. Unlike on 69420, there's no cab detail due to low visibility and the gearbox-firebox. Even when the front wheels derail, it can sometimes clear a section of track like nothing happens.



I somehow found it a bit hard to wire a regular slide switch in a "non permanent" way (no soldering), even though the one I was using had thick prongs. Likely something to do with the wire length or the tanks already being built. Instead, it uses a push button on the side of the left splasher.]

A coupling rod and (very) simplistic valve gear were briefly added on one side. In part due to the length of the driven axle, I didn't prepare holes for crankpins in any of the wheels. I don't want to trim the axle since I intend to reuse the gearbox after removing the electronics. If I did keep the rods and finished the other side, they would've been too wide compared to the rest of the model. Naturally, any further models with valve gear will have two slide bars on each side and not one. For anyone wondering: yes, it worked.




Final result. No reference photos were used, though it somewhat resembles an LMS 3F "Jinty" or an 0-6-0 version of a GWR 1400. Even the battery access is literally "TOMY Oliver" (i.e., the smokebox, boiler and firebox come off in one piece). The red, which I thought would give a more "rust like" colour, turned out a little more similar to LMS Crimson Lake. While it does match the turnout gear on the "driver and fireman", my planned casts of them would still be painted like typical railway uniforms.

All in all, this is quite an achievement for me even though it (ironically) runs worse than the other chassis (which doesn't have gearing). Would've made things much easier if I had the pre geared motors nearly everyone uses.