Converting Harvey into a DMU

Okay! Progress as it stands.

Sadly I've not had much time to devote to this recently as real life has got in the way, but I had a day off work yesterday so I devoted an hour to the DMU project.

First order of service was to prepare the coaches for painting. That meant sanding off the moulded end of the Harvey motor wagon, and the transfer-applied ends of Annie & Clarabel:

   

And using petrol to remove the name stickers from the sides of the coaches:

   

And clean the bodies with hot soapy water so they will take the paint well:

   

That done, they were left to dry and then mounted on cardboard to facilitate painting:

   

Now the fun. Managed to pick up some halfords grey primer and painted the bodies. This is where my experience may help others who are thinking of giving this a go - don't over do it! This is actually the first time I've ever sprayed using a can, and I wasn't prepared for how much paint would be deposited so quickly.

In consequence the models were a little (a little!) drowned in paint, which I regret. But it isn't a disaster, the details are strongly moulded and none have been lost - still, it sort of makes pointless the whole point of spray painting, that the colour is applied lightly and evenly.

   

My only major concern is the bubbling on the roof. I'm not sure what's going on there, but frankly I can live with it. Since when were railway carriage roof lines clean and well looked after!

I'm now waiting for the delivery of a spray-can of Humbrol brunswick green for the body, so I can start the next stage. After that I will be treating the carriage ends and roof with Humbrol matt black, and the leading ends with yellow (applying a matt white undercoat first).

The major question that remains is how to model the cab on the ends. I don't have the kit at the moment to cut out windows (nor the confidence I could do it properly). Suggestions? All I want to do is the windows, code box, and jumper leads. I'll probably do those with copper wire bent into shape, painted, and superglued on...

   

Thoughts?

Thumper unit,engine end roof.

[Super]

Looking good so far George. Thank you for the pictorial.

The bubbling on those roofs may be due to soap and water not removing completely the release agent that is used during processing that helps the plastic not stick to the molds. I've been told that they may use spray like WD40 or such on the molds and you have to use something like alcohol to really make sure it is gone. I had some links somewhere to sites explaining this but can't find them. Will check further. Also, I know it must be hard with those bumps, but did you sand the roofs so the primer would have something to grab on to?

I can make the cabs for you George. I'll make them so they just stick on.
Alastair

[Super]

You are great Warts!

I've got nothing to do today.

Thanks for the encouragement chaps. Green spray came today and i have just done two coats. Pictures later.

Thank you for your kind offer Wartsila, that is remarkably kind of you. I will turn you down though, not because I doubt your skill, but merely because this whole project was intended as a learning process for me, so I can improve my own skill.

that is not to say i won't ask for your advice on how to proceed, though? Any examples of ones youve done already?

Looking forward to sitting down with my paintbrush at the weekend...

George

Okay, progress! Another photodump incoming:

So last we spoke I had applied green body paint to the carriages, which I applied more skilfully (I believe) than the grey primer. Only painted the sides, rather than the whole body.

   

After that, I painted the roof and carriage ends with a Humbrol Matt black enamel, giving it two coats. Not a great picture but you get the idea:

   

Final stage is for me the most complex, and something I haven't done before. My better half is an architect, so having snaffled some modelling card, a scalpel, cutting matt and steel rule from her office I got to work making up the cab ends.

   

   

Having traced around the carriage ends, and having measured out the best I could for the openings, I prepared to cut.

   

   

Trying them on, it's looking good! Although I think one end is looking better than the other, sadly.

   

Adding the Humbrol Yellow enamel to the ends, which have been UHU'd on. Looking good! I did one coat last night, and another this morning.

   

Not a lot left to do now. Waiting for the cab ends to dry - this yellow paint seems to stay tacky much longer than the others. Once that is done I've fashioned some hoses and may even simulate a light, although I'd like to see a photograph of a thumper in original rather than preserved condition to see what the original light config was. A few questions remain, therefore.

Transfers. Do I bother? Can you get them cheaply? I'm really not interested in splashing any more cash at this than I already have. I'm thinking the early British Railways Roundel is the one.

   

Once I've done that, if I do, should I varnish the thing to prevent scuffs etc? If so which varnish spray should I get - matt or gloss? I've used a combo of matt and gloss paints on the body so far.

Advice, as always, appreciated.

[Super]

She is really looking good George. I can't wait for the finished product. If where the logo goes is flat you can make your own logo with the one pictured or another you may find on the Internet by using clear label stock like from Avery and an Inkjet or Laser Printer. I prefer the Clear Glossy labels but then it is an expense. If the sufuce is embossed with details then you can get Decal sheets for your printer which works the same only you have to spray they decal after printing with a clear Varithane spray or the like as printer ink is not water proof. Once you have done this you just cut out the new logo decal and install it like an other decal. The decal printer stock is a bit thicker than real decal backing but works good. There is one problem with both of these procedures as the decals or clear labels only look good on light surfaces and white will turn out clear as printers don't seem to print it.

There is one problem with both of these procedures as the decals or clear labels only look good on light surfaces and white will turn out clear as printers don't seem to print it.

White decal paper for inkjet printers is easily available, so that's not an issue. remember that decals should always be applied to a gloss surface, not an issue with your DMU I imagine. A good clear gloss for a final coat over the decals and anything else is available in the form of Johnson's Klear tile varnish (in the US it's called Future). I've got enough to last several lifetimes, but see here for current availability.