DalaGStanator's Customs, Mods and Experiments

Second try at a forklift, this time modelled after a Yale GLP060; minus (what seems to be) the LPG tank since it's not "literally" that model. V1 was the first type of small machine I tried making for a 1:50 scale operator, but its proportions were poor and it had a stability issue; likely caused by the ridges on the rear wheels. It also had a flimsy mast made of one zip tie, with the forks glued to a pawl end that slid over it (flipped around so it wouldn't get stuck in place). This version uses cardboard wheels, with the front ones having "rings" at the sides to add depth to the tyres. Should've used a knife to cut out the inner diameters, but I will make them like this from now on to improve their appearance. In case the front wheels lock up, they can be lightly pulled forward so they don't hit the mudguards. Rear steering works as expected, though the wheels have to be touched directly since they're too close to the cab to fit a knob.



The mast and forks are made entirely out of zip ties, including their perfectly shaped pointed ends. For realistic mounting, the sliding frame is attached to a pawl end with a thin strip behind it to keep it from falling off. Since the mast had to be rebuilt with hot glue and the four-layered side beams have mild residue from the liquid silicone, it has enough friction to keep the forks up when they reach the top (even with a load). To allow tilting, the mast is currently held on with a cardboard plate instead of an ordinary hinge. Only problem with that is it can also tilt left and right, so the single plate might be replaced with two for added stability.



I initially thought it wouldn't need a real counterweight, but so much as 4 grams is enough to make it tip forwards. My solution was to glue a magnet on top so the capacity can be adjusted by adding more magnets if needed. Later forklifts will be fitted with counterweights before sealing the bonnets.

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I think this is one of your best work LaG 👍

The plastic Bob the Builder pallets that came with Trix are (obviously) too big and heavy for this forklift, so I built a pair of real wood ones specifically for it with two different sizes of matchsticks; thicker, long matches for the middle layers and standard, short ones for all the other planks. Both were made to the size of the random cardboard piece used as a makeshift pallet in the counterweight demo. Each one is made of sixteen matchsticks in total (twelve thin, four thick) and is even simpler in construction than most real ones made today. Because my pruning scissors can't cut them short enough to make cube corners without cracking/warping them, I instead joined the ends with two long planks like the middle one. The saw blade(s) for my rotary tool will likely do a better job than the scissors. Demo of one pallet in action



The main flaw with the (current) design is that they aren't deep enough to be picked up from the thinner sides, meaning they can only be handled from two directions. Even if they were, the forks still wouldn't fit in due to the middle plank and the lack of cube corners. Too bad the compatible ends are too wide to clear the doors of my LNER-style 10 ton van (for instance).

After the photos were taken, I've since reattached the mast more firmly so it can no longer tilt sideways. Now, only the forks will have to be lowered since it raised them a little too much.

A comparison between one of my older "tyred" custom wheels from last year (right; painted [flat] rim; no paper tread) and an updated set in a similar diameter (left; side layers; treaded). Makes the difference look that much bigger than it really is. Although the inner circles were cut out with a knife as well as scissors and a screwdriver, the rough edges make it look like there's paint on the 'inside' of the tyre rather than just the rim. Another issue is one wheel (somehow) always becomes a little off-centre when gluing the "ring" layers, even though they're the same size as the main discs behind them.



The exact same technique is used on the average cardboard vehicle and emulates tyres a lot more effectively, so it will be a tiny step in making my own ones look better. Unlike the previous flat rims, it will allow making a variety of hubcap designs that can't be emulated when there's no depth; especially conical hubs for front wheels on heavy duty vehicles.

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On another note: I just happened to miss the date of my Tenth Anniversary on BPT (April 12th). I could still put together something to show my gratitude for the fun I've had in this community, such as a miniature Plarail set or a direct ad for the site. Would anyone be up for that? I can already picture making things like micro versions of the "train-sized" 3-pack boxes, similar to the miniature LEGO sets in 3221.

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Happy 10th Anniversary LaG