how to repair split cogs?

10 Replies, 16242 Views

i know i should know this, but usually im able to scrounge up a replacement from somewhere. this time, im stuck!
the tokyo disney train i got last year never ran well, and i finally took another look at it today, to find a split gear.

the top one is the tokyo gear... the split can be seen. ive found a similar size cog on the bottom set from a vintage magnetic engine, but cant see how to fit it to the original bar, so im thinking a repair is the way to go.
[Image: GEDC1944.jpg]

ive heard of using a kind of glue, but what glue, and how do you hold the join together until it sets?

thanks in advance! the disney train and i will be greatful for any help and advice!
my website address has changed: https://sunscollections.weebly.com/
[-] The following 1 user Likes sunhuntin's post:
  • Ucwepn
I think all the Train engines like the Disney steamers, Benkei, Yoshitsune and the others have a problem with splitting gears like that. It may be to the gears being plastic and not neoprene or how they are set up within the gear box, I don't know. I have had a couple with the same problem and I have bought junkers that didn't run for the original owners because of it. What I have done in the past is use Super or Krazy glue. The kind I like to use is the brush applicator style. The glue is thin enough not to build up in the gears and the brush is useful in getting the glue deep down to the axle and covering both sides of the split. Getting the glue to the axle bonds the gear to it along with both sides of the split adding more strength to the repair and to prevent slippage. I would recommend you stay away from the tube or thick Super glues as they may fill up the groove between the teeth. I then use a mini C clamp that should be available at a local hobby or hardware store. In a pinch a binder clip may work but I like the C clamps because you can control the pressure so you don't damage the gear. Good luck!

Thats what I have done but there may be others with a different way. Didn't Ucwepn repair a gear in one of his videos?

[Image: 003_zpssh0spjsf.jpg]
[-] The following 2 users Like Super's post:
  • Gerisplarail1, Ucwepn
cheers, super. never would have thought of the c clamp. have asked ucwepn and he said super glue as well. will give it a go in a couple of weeks.

been on a repairing spree today. successfully got two merry-go zoo elephants working, and checked and lubed the rest of that range. also quietened down a rusty for my nephew.

just had another go at my japanese talking diesel 10 set, and got beyond annoyed with it. thought it was a split axle, nothing to be seen. no idea what the problem is, but ive had enough of it. makes it worse that the battery thing is in splatter, so all that extra weight to drag around, plus trying to hold things steady at the same time. grrrrrrrrrr. right now i couldnt care less about its rarity. about my most expensive piece, and the least useful.
my website address has changed: https://sunscollections.weebly.com/
[-] The following 2 users Like sunhuntin's post:
  • Super, Ucwepn
When using the C clamp, I like to make sure it is on the ridge of the cog/gear and not on the teeth to prevent damaging them.


[Image: GEDC1944_zpsubeowudo.jpg]
[-] The following 1 user Likes Super's post:
  • Ucwepn
When repaired a cog in my last loco I used my old favourite epoxy resin, the problem I found was with the cog split, the gear was spinning on the shaft,
[Image: 52DCFF04-05B7-40A4-8A38-34F2049397D3_zps4g6nmxtd.jpg]

this resin filled the gap and glued the cog to the shaft, the problem with resin is it's really thick and hard to apply, it didn't close up the crack in the gear either, I think next time is be more inclined to use the G clamp and superglue method!
[-] The following 1 user Likes Tramp's post:
  • Super
Good point Tramp. It would also be advisable to brush Super glue on the shaft at each end of the cog/gear.
Update...

I have revisited the glued gear repairs I have done and notice that, even though the trains run fine with the glued gear, it sometimes slips on the split gear because that part is still a bit wider as even with the clamp it doesn't come perfectly together. Its annoying and I have had so many used trains that came in bulk purchases that had split cogs that I was running out of spare drive wheel assembly's. There had to be a better way. I have managed to remove one of the wheels and gear and tried Super gluing the gear off of the axle. I was able to glue it perfectly together but when sliding it back onto the shaft it would split again. I have now ordered (haven't received) this set of new gears from Yahoo Japan Auctions in hopes of a permanent fix. The one I took off was 12 tooth and I know I have come across some with 14 so I hope this works.


Attached Files Thumbnail(s)
           
Let me know how this goes. I saw them on the web too.

My repairs to broken cogs were lack luster. I eventually, just started removing axels from trains I didn't like and putting them into ones I do.

Now I have a whole fleet of trains sitting idle until I find a better solution to the cogs.

Btw what is the performance difference between 12 and 14?
I don't think its a case of performance for the cogs, its that some trains use 12 teeth and others 14. Its how the gearing is set up in the motor.
(02-07-2015, 05:01 PM)Super Wrote: I don't think its a case of performance for the cogs, its that some trains use 12 teeth and others 14. Its how the gearing is set up in the motor.

As a business running repairs are a necessity . We find it is the Tomy engines as the trackmaster ones are different material. We were lucky in sourcing some brass cogs and made a rig to enable the installation of the new cogs onto the axle . Once a cog is broken and fixed with glue it will always have a weakpoint.
[-] The following 1 user Likes Guest's post:
  • Super



Users browsing this thread: 7 Guest(s)