The New 3D Printing Thread

Congrats T-Boy, nice to see you managed to fix the model so it does print successfully, I presume the 'failed' print was a result of trying to print the 'unfixed' model as that is missing the funnel etc... just like the one I printed is once I remove the garbage. Although I may just print just those parts separately and glue them onto the body I already printed so its not wasted.

Out of interest, on this picture do you have any idea why the vertical line I've circled was printed on the model? That shouldn't be there as it should be a smooth back. unless this is a side effect of the MS fix program?



Also can I ask what layer height you used to print the model? Not wishing to put you down or cause you disappointment, but the gradients on the dome etc... look like the layer height could be improved upon. If you are using Ultimaker Cura v5 to slice the model you may want to turn on the 'variable layer height' option - its under the experimental tag I believe. What this does is to vary the layer height when you have curves etc... to try to make the outcome smoother.

As for the printer video you posted on twitter that sure is an interesting design. I don't think I've seen any printer using that method before, usually if its a round build plate it is a 'delta' type solution that is employed and the bed never moves. Basically a delta design has the head suspended on 3 sets of arms which then vary their height to get the head to where it should be and at the correct height to print. That style does have some good points over the Cartesian style printers where you have a square bed that moves backwards and forwards and a print head on a cross member that moves left and right while the cross member slowly moves upwards as each layer is printed. The latter Cartesian printers tend to hold the majority of the market share as the design is relatively simple, reliable (relatively speaking) and cheap to manufacture.

Regardless welcome to the 3D printer club, I look forward to seeing what else you turn out in the coming months, I warn you it can become quiet addictive

I also printed some siderods too yesterday. One of them broke off.

Congrats T-Boy, nice to see you managed to fix the model so it does print successfully, I presume the 'failed' print was a result of trying to print the 'unfixed' model as that is missing the funnel etc... just like the one I printed is once I remove the garbage. Although I may just print just those parts separately and glue them onto the body I already printed so its not wasted.

Out of interest, on this picture do you have any idea why the vertical line I've circled was printed on the model? That shouldn't be there as it should be a smooth back. unless this is a side effect of the MS fix program?



Also can I ask what layer height you used to print the model? Not wishing to put you down or cause you disappointment, but the gradients on the dome etc... look like the layer height could be improved upon. If you are using Ultimaker Cura v5 to slice the model you may want to turn on the 'variable layer height' option - its under the experimental tag I believe. What this does is to vary the layer height when you have curves etc... to try to make the outcome smoother.

As for the printer video you posted on twitter that sure is an interesting design. I don't think I've seen any printer using that method before, usually if its a round build plate it is a 'delta' type solution that is employed and the bed never moves. Basically a delta design has the head suspended on 3 sets of arms which then vary their height to get the head to where it should be and at the correct height to print. That style does have some good points over the Cartesian style printers where you have a square bed that moves backwards and forwards and a print head on a cross member that moves left and right while the cross member slowly moves upwards as each layer is printed. The latter Cartesian printers tend to hold the majority of the market share as the design is relatively simple, reliable (relatively speaking) and cheap to manufacture.

Regardless welcome to the 3D printer club, I look forward to seeing what else you turn out in the coming months, I warn you it can become quiet addictive

I forgot to press the 'post reply' on the above message yesterday so apologies for that. After reading your post I downloaded the MS app and fixed my downloaded model of the J94 and re-printed it, this time it printed as you would expect. The pictures of it are below, doesn't look too bad and that vertical line I mentioned is not present on my print as per the model. I'm only mentioning it as it may mean you need to adjust something on your printer, something maybe you could query with the manufacturers otherwise you may get aberrations like that on other models...

Hi Nigels, could you remind us which printer you are favouring at the moment, please. Thanks.

Hi Nigels, could you remind us which printer you are favouring at the moment, please. Thanks.

Hi Chris,

My current 'work horse' is the Tronxy XY-3se, this has got all sorts of cool features such as auto bed levelling, filament out sensor, dual z-axis drive screws, touch screen etc...  It's a little more expensive than the Creality Ender 3 that I used to use as my main printer, but it is far more reliable, consistent and produces arguably better quality prints.

This is the link to the amazon one I got, but its currently unavailable, they may have other sellers selling it though; Tronxy XY-3se


Cheers, Nigel

I am curently in the process of 3D printing some rolling stock wheels at the moment, they're a group of 24 wheels. I'll be using them for spare parts in case I need them.



If they do fit, I no longer have to salvage them from other models can go ahead and 3D print some more parts, pretty excited about this if they can fit.

When the image was posted, it was around 4% done

[Super]

Let us know how they turn out T-Boy. It would be neat to see custom colored wheels for some trains.

Not wishing to sound condescending, but a suggestion;

Instead of printing them standing upright print them flat on the bed.  There are a couple of reasons;

1. The layers will run vertically in the wheels when they are fitted to the model, this provides stronger structural integrity, printing them in the plane you wish to use the wheels you have the layers running the thickness of the wheel instead of the vertical of the wheel.  This may lead to them snapping more easily, if printed flat then the layer strength is better as it covers a larger area.

2. Printing them flat you should get 'rounder' wheels, if the layers are printed horizontally across the wheels the 'steps' caused by the layers may make them less accurate and rough on the driving edges.

3. Printing them upright on edge like it seems you are there is a higher chance that the print head may clip a wheel and knock the model over causing a failure.


Cheers, Nigel

Nice suggestion, when I 3D printed them, it automatically adds a raft for support so they don't fall off. I did this so it doesn't take up as much space on the printer bed as it would if it were laying down.



This is when I 3D printed some wheels, you can see some of the added rafts on the top photo.THe bottom photo is how they came out.